The Cook Islands tl;dr (Pt. 3)
Cook Islands Part 1 Here
Cook Islands Part 2 Here
May 28th
Today was a travel day. We were leaving one Cook Island for another. Because the domestic flights were so small, we had to divide ourselves into two groups and take two different planes to Mangaia. The first group was leaving the hotel at about 7:30 in the morning. We heard them but opted not to get up and say goodbye as we would see them again in a few hours. Our group left later. When we got up we took all our bags into one central room. We learn that we were keeping one room at the hotel so we could keep our bags in it while we were gone.
I wanted to go to the local bakery for breakfast. We had some fresh scones. After we finished eating, we went back to the hotel to hurry up and wait. We put in a movie that everyone had already seen before because we wouldn’t have enough time to finish watching it. At noon we got into a van and went to the airport. The flight was domestic so there were no customs to go through.
When we arrived, we were met with flower leis. This airport was even smaller than the Rarotonga airport barely a room no windows or doors just a cement building that we had to pass through to enter the island. The runway was just a dirt strip we hoped the plane would stop on. After the runway is a sharp drop into the water.
Once we exited at the airport we were put in the box of a truck or driven to the YWCA where we will be staying. Driving down the road and we quickly learned that none of the roads were paved.
The YWCA building is one large communal space. Off to one side is a kitchen with no door and a bathroom that does have a door. When we arrived, we had to pick spots that were free because the other group arrived first. Thankfully, they saved two spots next to each other for Alex and me.
Now that we are all present, we were taken to the local hall where they prepared a wonderful bunch of fresh food for us. It was very simple but the island is a very difficult place to grow food to feed both the people and the animals that are kept there. After lunch, we were returned YWCA so we could start setting up our beds.
Due to my lack of space, I hadn’t brought a bug net however Alex had a very large one. Since we were kindly given two single mattresses next to each other we pushed them together and made one large double mattress that we could cover with her single large bug net.
The people of the island had kindly given each of us two blankets and a pillow to use while we were there. However, we were not used to the tropical weather and it was very hot. Most people didn’t want their second blanket, Alex and I took the extra blankets and put them us underneath to make our mattress much softer.
As we finish getting everything set up we went and sat outside in the warm afternoon. We did a bit of exploring in the immediate area but we were a little bit outside of town and separate from everyone so there wasn’t a lot to explore except for the local fauna and flora.
There aren’t many places on the island to buy food. There is no big grocery, mostly small stores with basic essentials. People have their own farms and gardens. So rather than have us fend for ourselves a group of women from the island arrived with our dinner and set it up. It was very good and generous of the people.
After dinner, we sat around and visited for a little while with the ladies. Eventually, I wanted a little bit of time to myself so I decided to go for a walk. Some of the others decided to invite themselves with me. It was not a quiet walk. After a short walk, we returned to the YWCA everyone was still outside talking with people and so I decided to go to bed.
May 29th
In the morning I was woken up by a very gentle ting, ting, ting. This was Gary awake at 6 in the morning stirring his tea. Despite the fact, this woke most of us up we stayed in bed pretending to be asleep for another half an hour. We made breakfast from the leftovers. After breakfast, we got ready for the day expecting a guy to arrive shortly before 8 to take us caving.
Our guide arrived and took us to visit some local caves. The first cave that we went to turned out to be a historical burial cave. At the entrance to the cave, there were many wood boxes that were falling apart. Inside the wood boxes it there was skeletons. Most of these are found at the entrance of the cave and we slowly went deeper and deeper into the cave.
Somehow Alex, Jessica, Brendan, and I ended up ahead of everybody including the guide. There were tricky parts to navigate in the cave. At one point there was a large opening that we had to go around on a tiny ledge. We made it all right but the guide was surprised to see us on the other side. He pulled out a wooden board and placed it over the hole for people to cross.
It was dark in the cave. There were a few places where I slipped or tripped and had to be caught before I hurt myself. When we thought we’d almost made it out of the cave because we saw daylight, we were wrong. placed along one of the walls of the cave was a ladder we had to use it to climb up near the top of the cavern. However, the ladder didn’t reach all the way to the top. Once we reached the top of the ladder then we had to shimmy up the wall and be pulled out from there.
After we walked back to the guides house. We had lunch there. When we finished we went to explore three more caves. These caves were much simpler, and it was no climbing involved to get out. The three caves took us the rest of the day.
When we finished, we return to the YWCA and fought over who got to shower first. When we finish cleaning up we had nothing to do but wait because again dinner was being brought to us.
After dinner, we started a fire outside and sat around telling stories and singing songs and everything else that you do sitting around the fire. The difficult thing about being at the YWCA is the thin barrier between the group of people being loud and rambunctious outside and a group of people inside wishing to sleep inside. We did try to quiet ourselves down after a few noise complaints but I’m not sure we were very successful.
May 30th
There was no wake-up call this morning and we got to sleep in a little bit. Some people were still up really early doing whatever and making breakfast though. After breakfast, we started out on a new adventure. We were headed into the central part of the island to see the makatea. Makatea is the large cliffs of fossilized coral around the island. Over time weather causes this to be ground down into fine soil that is home to the different crops that are grown on Mangaia.
After a visit to the makatea, we went to a sacred spot call a Marae. This is the space where religious ceremonies are held on the island. This is a place that is kept clear of trees and vegetation and is usually a big open space sometimes decorated with carved figures or stones to demarcate the edges of the Marae. We went back to the YWCA in the afternoon so we could get changed into bathing suits. We went to visit the harbour, where we could also go swimming.
Mangaia is a coral atoll, so we had to wear water shoes while swimming because the coral can do a lot of damage to exposed skin. Another thing about a coral atoll is that the water is quite shallow over the coral until you reach the certain end and get a sharp drop off. Because we were at the harbour the dock that they use for the boats extended past the edge of the coral.
We could jump off the dock and into the large waves outside of the reef. However, there was no ladder to climb back onto the dock. There was a lot of difficulties getting back onto the shallow reef without hitting the edge of the coral. The coral could cut you quite easily, so you didn’t want to run into the edge of the reef. You had to time it very carefully to come over the edge of the coral with a large wave so that you would be able to come over the top of the coral without banging your legs.
I was not very skilled at this and ended up scraping both of my knees and the palm of my hand. I tried multiple times to get up but mostly was unsuccessful and did cut myself on the coral a few times. Eventually, I realized this wasn’t fun for me. I didn’t want to keep cutting myself up and doing more damage to myself. Also, the saltwater really stung. We stayed for a short while more and then went back to the YWCA.
Everyone was lazing around when a lady came and offered to take some of our laundry to be washed. We thought this was amazing and we had tons that we wanted to be washed. To not overburden the kindness being shown we each gave her only a few pieces of laundry in desperate need of a wash.
We lazed around until dinner arrived early, closer to 6 instead of 7. I was very happy to see real pineapple and potato salad.
After dinner, Alex and I walked along the road. After we came back, we went down to the water. Jessica and Brendon were already there, so we walked to an outcropping of rocks above the water. Alex and I were warned that the rocks that were wet would get wet again from the spray of the waves. We made sure to sit well back from those rocks. We stayed for a while but we ended up going back to the YWCA when a rogue wave came up high and soaked us. I dried off and went to bed.
May 31st
Naomi and Adrian were down for the count that morning. I think they ended up with dehydration. They were sick with fever, stomach pains, vomiting, and diarrhea. They stayed home that day. The rest of us went to a local school.
There was a welcoming assembly held for us and then we were taken to the grade six class. Alex and I helped make woven decorations for the head. Others made bead necklaces, brooms, dance costumes, or learned how to weave rope. When we finished, we went to other classes. We learned how to make local sunglasses, shell necklaces, and some dances. A group of boys pull other boys away and we watch with hearts in our throats as them scaled a coconut tree. Then the boy jumped on the top of the tree so that the coconuts fell. They offered us the coconuts to have for lunch.
We were amazed in the way that this happened. The boy showed us exactly what he did. First, he made a rope. Then he wrapped it around a tree and held it tight with both hands. He used the rope to the brace himself so he could lean back and get a better grip on the tree with his feet. He put the rope up as high as he could and then walked up the trunk of the tree. Then he could move the rope higher. He kept repeating the motion. When he got to the top he climbed up over the leaves. Then he jumped on the center the tree where the palms and the trunk came together the coconuts would fall.
The boys use a machete to open the coconuts so that we could drink from them. We thanked them and told them how amazed we were. Alex and I went to participate in some weaving. I made myself a headband. I watched Brendan run by with a bunch of boys. They had made a kite and we’re going to fly it.
By the time I finish my headband and went to see the kite flying it had disappeared. And now they were playing soccer. I joined in and after awhile Kayla and Kevin joined us as well. We played with the students until we were called for lunch. It was a very enjoyable morning.
We walked to the historical Cultural Center. One of their main pieces on display was a canoe that they had carved. They also had adz blades and some fighting sticks that they traditionally used in the area. While at the historical Cultural Center we had a short lecture on the local government and voyaging. Then we went back to the YWCA.
By the time we got back to our temporary home, it was obvious that a few more people were getting sick. Not wanting to get sick, I decided that I was going for a walk to get away from all the germs. I climbed one of those rocks by the lagoon so I could get a nice view. I just sat and watched the waves crashing and the fish swimming around in the ocean below.
Soon more and more people had the idea to get away from the center and come down to the beach to avoid all the sick people. We stayed out for a while but eventually we had to go back.
It was my turn to help with chores along with Jessica and Brendon. I talked about getting some of the dishes done before dinner, but we left it because we only wanted to do the dishes once. When the ladies came with our dinner that evening, they brought pre-made plates out of woven Palm leaves this made clean up so much easier for us that evening.
After dinner, we only had a few plates and silverware to clean up. Because we had extra time we decided to do a very thorough clean. So many people were getting sick. One of the things that we discovered was that Naomi had made a bunch of food with her bare hands while she was sick. We didn’t want to waste food so we left that in a drawer for her to eat.
After dinner, there wasn’t very much to do. We had a small meeting to discuss sanitation with so many people being sick in our group. It was determined the healthy bunch of people should probably use the facilities of the church rather than the facilities in the building that were already contaminated with the sickness
June 1st
It was Friday, and on Mangaia that’s the one day of the week that they hold a market. I woke up early and headed to the church to use the facilities and even though it was 6:30 in the morning people were already setting up for the market that day.
The market was very small compared to the market in Rarotonga. I bought some fresh flowers to wear in my hair I learned that if you’re single you ware the flower in your left ear if you are taken you wear the flower on your right ear. I also bought two sarongs and breakfast. After the market, I went back to the YMCA to start breakfast for everybody. Brandon was already doing the dishes when I arrived.
I hate kitchen duty in a group of people. There was pushing people rushing in wanting to know when breakfast will be ready. Eventually, we just closed the door to keep everybody out.
We’re supposed to head out that morning at about 9 a.m. The second truck that was supposed to take us was late and it wasn’t until about 9:30 that we got out of the center.
We were headed to see a shipwreck. The wreck is of the vessel Saragossa. In 1904 it founds rough sea and became shipwrecked. The anchor and a few pieces of the remains can be seen at low tide near one of the villages. When we got there, we understood how a ship could be wrecked. The waves were huge.
It was an interesting site to spend a little bit of time on and learn some history about. We moved a little bit inland and went to a lookout point where we could see the Taro fields.
Back at the center, we decided to go for a walk on the beach. The tide was coming in though so that idea didn’t last very long. We went back to the YWCA in I started to read my textbook to do a bit of studying but that put me to sleep. So I had a nap instead. While I was sleeping somebody kindly came and dropped off a TV from their own home. I didn’t get very many channels, so we sat around and watched rugby until dinner came.
After dinner, we went outside and sat around and talked because the generator was off on the television would no longer work. I tried to go have a shower that evening but the water was cold, and I didn’t want to stay up under the spray. I scrubbed down quickly but didn’t have a real shower.
We decided to go out and see what the island nightlife offered. We got dressed, did hair and make-up, then sat around until just after 9. The bar was slow. There are a few songs we recognized but not many. We did a bit of dancing. Without the whole group of us being there it wasn’t very entertaining so some of us decided to turn around and go back.
However, along the way, we passed some of the others going to the bar. So, we went back with them to the bar. At one point we realized at the bar didn’t have the facilities that we were able to use. We had to go back to the YWCA to use the bathroom. On our way back to the center we passed the rest of our group headed to the bar. So, when we finish, we turned around and went back but when we got to the bar it seemed like when people were leaving so, we left with them and went back to the center and we talked until we went to bed.
June 2nd
I heard Michael’s arm go off at 7 am. But he laid there a little bit and read until 7:30. Then he woke up the breakfast crew. My kitchen duty was done so I continued to doze. After breakfast, I walked to the store to buy water.
People in the village were just starting to set up for sports day. I went back to the house to drop off my purchase of water and then I went out to the field with some of the others to watch what was happening.
We were invited to participate in the day’s activities. The women ran the races with the mamas and the papas. We participated in the relay by forming our own team. We also put ourselves onto teams of local as needed. Team Canada played volleyball. It was entertaining but we were schooled by the mamas. Then we spent a few hours at the field playing with all the kids that were there.
After the morning was over, we were exhausted and decided we deserved a reward. So, we went back to the YWCA to get ready to go to Allen’s for burgers. The place was nice and the burgers were good. We ended up staying for about 3 hours before we went back to the center.
Time was passed by playing cards and other things for a bit before we got ready to head down to Babe’s Bar for Island Night. We left around 7:30 but the show didn’t start until 9. Since we were early, we decided to go with some of the local guys until the show started.
The Island Night entertainment was a few of the local dance groups performing. The show ended at about 11. We headed back to the YWCA after.
June 3rd
I slept in late today, almost 9. Mike and I were feeling sick. But I think I had something different from everyone else. I didn’t feel quite as bad as they had. It started raining just before we left for church so rather than walking, we took three trips in one of the vehicles. The sermon was given in both English and in Maori. After church, we join the village for a light lunch which more than held us over until dinner because it wasn’t light at all.
We return to the center and we had a lecture for about an hour. After some people went swimming but because I wasn’t feeling well I stayed behind and had a nap. When I woke up, I went outside to see some of the others were speaking with one of the locals. He was nice enough to answer any of the questions that we had. That night we made dinner, the only one that we had to make ourselves. After dinner, I sat around with everybody watching TV until I fell asleep.
June 4th
I woke up still feeling stuffed up and coughing but I was feeling a little bit better. We had leftover supper for breakfast. Then we spent the day lazing around. I decided to use some of the time to study my French for Dummies because after this trip to the Cook Islands I was headed to work in Belgium. Brendan who went through French immersion laughed at me because I’m unilingual.
Because it was a lazy day and I was still feeling sick shortly after breakfast I had a nap. Then I woke up when people were getting ready to go swimming. I join them for a bit then we had lunch. We sat around for a little bit and Gary gave us our last lecture of the trip.
Dinner was delivered again. Then we sat around outside and we learned some of the local songs and sang with some of the villagers. We had lots of fun. Alex and I went for a walk, some of the others decided that they wanted to join us on the walk. It started to rain and so we turn back. When we got back to the center we dried off and then went to bed. We could hear the others sitting outside on the porch talking.
June 5th
Today was a travel day. We’re able to sleep in late because we were again part of the second group travelling. The first plane left at 10. Those of us who were in the second group stayed at the center and we cleaned up. Taoi dropped off surveys for us to fill in. After we did those, we stacked the mattresses. We swept the floor, then we really had nothing left to do. We checked the kitchen a few times there was no cleaning. We’ve had everything done. We just waited to leave.
Around 12:30, we left the hall to go to the airport. We were met by some of the locals and given eis. An ei is a necklace made of small snail shells that are naturally a bright yellow colour. Small holes are drilled in the shells and the necklaces are strung by hand, so they take quite a bit of time to create. They are given to guest on the island. We felt honoured to be receiving them.
There wasn’t anything to do the airport either, so we sat around for an hour. We walk to the ocean and we watch the plane come in. Then we boarded a plane it did a circle of the island then took us off to Rarotonga.
After arriving at Rarotonga Airport and getting our bags we headed back to the hotel that we had been staying at before. We had to wait to do laundry because the people who’d been in the first group had already started their laundry. We went down to the market in town and the store so that we could get things that we needed for our last few days in the Cook Islands.
At this point, I ran out of pages in my journal. I had nothing else written about our last few days in the Cook Islands. We spent the time enjoying the sights, the sand, and the sea. We spent time with each other before we all separated for the rest of the summer.
June 8th
On our final day in Cook Island, Jessica and I had an appointment to go and get tattoos with Storm. She was a local artist who used Maori designs in her art. Jessica knew what she wanted, a dolphin on her ankle. I knew what I wanted my tattoo to mean but not the design I wanted.
I told Storm I wanted a tattoo that represented me and my time on the island. So I wanted the design to have meaning in the Cook Islands. I also wanted it to represent my love of travel and itchy feet by getting the tattoo on my foot.
Storm did a quick design of a turtle with its shell being a frigate bird. The turtle represented one who travels long distances in the water. The frigate bird represented one who travels long distances in the air. I loved it. She made the stencil and we put it on my foot. It really is a painful place for a tattoo.
